Sunday, January 5, 2014

Hitting a few more sites on the way home... - 1/5/2014






 On the way home we decided to grab a few more historic sites-- never-mind the fact that it adds hours to the drive home.  We are adventurers, so a little extra time on the road is just fine for us!
 Our first stop was in Snelling to see the first courthouse in Merced County, Snelling Courthouse (CHL 409).  Snelling is a tiny, tiny town to the east of Highway 99.
From the CA Parks website:  "This, the first courthouse in Merced County, was erected in 1857. This monument commemorates the 75th anniversary of the organization of Merced County and is dedicated to the memory of our pioneers by Yosemite Parlor No. 24, N.S.G.W., Merced, May 20, 1930."
 We lost all internet here so a nice young lady at the gas station helped guide us to Merced.
 We saw yet another 934 in Merced.  Sadly there are 11 assembly centers in Calfornia-- that is 11 too many!
 This assembly center was again located on the County Fairgrounds.  Information from the California Parks website states, "NO. 934 TEMPORARY DETENTION CAMPS FOR JAPANESE AMERICANS-MERCED ASSEMBLY CENTER - This was one of 15 temporary detention camps established during World War II to incarcerate persons of Japanese ancestry, a majority of whom were American citizens, without specific charges or trial. From May to September 1942, 4,669 residents of Northern California were detained until permanent relocation camps were built. May the injustices and humiliation suffered here as a result of hysteria, racism, and economic exploitation never recur."
 Each of the 934 sites we have visited have different descriptions-- we were struck by the language in the final sentence, it is much, much stronger than any we have read thus far.

With these two sites we have now completed our second county-- we are finished with Merced County!!!
 We now drove down to Fresno County to catch three that looked so simple on the map.  Sadly, the map never tells the whole truth. 
 This site is NO. 803 Site of the first Junior College in California.   "Constructed in 1895, the school was known as Fresno High School from 1895-1921. Established as the first junior college of California in 1910, in 1911 it became a normal school, forerunner to Fresno State College. From 1921 to 1948 it was called Fresno Technical High School, and Fresno Junior College from 1948 to 1959. Plaque placed by the Fresno Tech Alumni Association."
 The complex where the plaque was, sadly wasn't opened on Sunday, so this was as close as we got to it.

 Next we headed to our second IWW site in our adventures thus far CHL 873 Site of the Fresno Free Speech Fidht of the Industrial Workers of the World.   While I sat in the car with Bella, Ron and Libi went in search of the plaque that was supposed to be located in a planter.  Sadly there was an ice rink in the middle of the plaza, so they never got to the actual plaque, but they came close.  Strike two for easy things in Fresno.
Near this site from October 1910 to March 1911, the Industrial Workers of the World fought for the right of free speech in their efforts to organize Fresno's unskilled labor force. According to the California website, "This was the first fight for free speech in California, and the first attempt to organize the valley's unskilled workers."
 Next was our final 934 of this trip--Temporary Detention Camps for Japanese Americans-- Fresno Assembly Center (CHL 934).  This plaque was located inside the Fresno District Fairgrounds, so we could only get close with my zoom lens!  Strike three Fresno!!!

 The California Parks website description reads:  "This memorial is dedicated to over 5,000 Americans of Japanese ancestry who were confined at the Fresno Fairgrounds from May to October 1942. This was an early phase of the mass incarceration of over 120,000 Japanese Americans during World War II pursuant to Executive Order 9066. They were detained without charges, trial or establishment of guilt. May such injustice and suffering never recur."
 Our final scheduled stop was probably the coolest of the day...  Site of the Flight of the Gossamer Condor (CHL 923).   Shafter airport where the flight took place is a short drive to the west of Highway 99.
In 1959 a competition was set up by Henry Kramer to find the first group that could fly a human-powered aircraft over a one mile course.  The prize was 50,000 pounds if you could fly the aircraft over a 1.6 km figure-eight course which had a ten-foot pole to fly over at the start and end of the course.

Dr. Paul MacCready, Jr. and his partners set to work on their design.  After testing the Pasadena and Mojave versions of the plane, he felt they were ready to try for the prize.  On August 23, 1977 at Shafter Airport Bryan Allen, a hang gliding pilot and amateur bicyclist flew the Gossamer Condor.  The flight took six minutes and twenty-two seconds and won the cash prize.

The plane is now on display in the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum-- so we will absolutely have to check it out next time we are there!

There was also a documentary made about the flight, which won an Academy Award.  You can see an excerpt here where you can see the Gossamer Condor cross the 10-foot pole at the end of the Kramer Course. 
 Our final stop for the day was a bit of a fluke-- we pass Fort Tejon (CHL 129) on every drive to my folks house, but we always have Bella with us.  I checked the website to see if it was dog friendly, but couldn't find anything about animals on the site.
 Today we decided to stop and get a plaque photo-- even though we didn't get to go on the grounds.  Note:  they do allow dogs on leash, so if you want to stop with your pooch you can!

From the California parks website:  "This military post was established by the United States Army on June 24, 1854, to suppress stock rustling and protect the Indians in the San Joaquin Valley. Camels for transportation were introduced here in 1858. As regimental headquarters of the First Dragoons, Fort Tejón was an important military, social, and political center - it was abandoned September 11, 1864."

This is the second site that has involved camels-- the first being the Drum Barracks-- I guess in the 1850s camels were thought to be the transportation of the future :)

 We will absolutely have to come back and spend time exploring the grounds (sans Bella), but today they were full of deer!


This now brings our total to 152!  Not too shabby for beginning the project on a whim in October.

Saturday, January 4, 2014

Folsom: Way More Than Just a Prison Town - 1/4/2014

Today we explored East Sacramento County. We headed up Highway 99 to our first stop: Murphy's Ranch (CHL #680).
The plaque says "Murphy's Corral," but the official State of California website says Murphy's Ranch, so that's what we're going with. A corral was involved, however. In fact, this is the site where American settlers, led by Ezekiel Merritt (plaque spells it "Ezekial," but every historical piece I have found online spells it "Ezekiel"), overpowered Mexican soldiers and stole their horses from the corral at Murphy's Ranch on June 10, 1846. From what I've read so far, Merritt was a drunk and an illiterate. But he was apparently given command of this small group of settlers by Captain John C. Frémont, and four days later Merritt helped lead the "Bear Flag Revolt" in Sonoma. This revolt would give California her independence from Mexico, and would eventually pave the way for US annexation. We'll explore more on the story of the Bear Flag action when we get to Sonoma.
Next stop on our journey takes us to the campus of Sac State.
Having the plaque in the middle of a school campus (we've had one of these before already) makes it a bit more difficult because we have to do a little more exploring. We consider it a success if we get "as close as we possibly can under the circumstances." If the plaque is behind a locked gate, then we get as close as we possibly can, take whatever photo we can, and move on. We believed that with a little searching we could find this plaque, so we kept looking. Eventually, due to my wife's expert navigation, we found the plaque for Five Mile House--Overland Pony Express Route in California (CHL #697).
From the State of California: "Departing at 2:45 a.m. from the Alta Telegraph Co. in Sacramento, rider Sam (Bill) Hamilton carried the first mail of the Central Overland Pony Express eastward on April 4, 1860. Quickly changing ponies at the Five Mile House, he sped on to the next stop at Fifteen Mile Station."
We had a couple cemeteries to visit today, so we tracked down our first one. This doesn't look like a cemetery. In fact, it's now Sutter Middle School. Nevertheless, this is the site for the New Helvetia Cemetery (CHL #592).
According to findagrave.com, there were over 5,000 bodies buried here, some of whom were the founders of Sacramento, that were interred here for nearly 100 years when their remains were moved to different cemeteries to make room for the school. As a teacher, I don't know if I would be so keen to teach on land that used to be a cemetery. Hmmmm.
Yup, there's the blacktop of Sutter Middle School. Right over what used to be the final resting place for thousands.
Well, speaking of sad, converted cemeteries, here is the site of the first Jewish cemetery in California: Chevra Kaddisha: Home of Peace Cemetery (CHL #654-1). It's a strip mall now, in between Club Raven nightclub and Smolich & Smolich, attorneys-at-law.
This narrow passage in between the two buildings (photo below) is where 3230 J Street in Sacramento should be. Libi has a sad face in the photo above to indicate her displeasure that two cemeteries in a row have been disturbed.
On to happier locations. Here is Sutter's Landing (CHL #591).
John Sutter, of course, is a big deal here in Sacramento. This is the site where Captain Sutter landed his ship after coming up the Sacramento River delta from Yerba Buena (now San Francisco). It was shortly after this landing that be built the famous for that bears his name.
Our next landmark took us to another golf course.
We headed out just north of the clubhouse to find this landmark: First Transcontinental Railroad: Western Base of the Sierra Nevada (CHL #780-8). 
From the state: "On January 12, 1864, President Abraham Lincoln decreed that the western base of the Sierra Nevada began where the Central Pacific Railroad crossed Arcade Creek. The hardships of railroad construction through mountains resulted in increased government subsidies that gave the company impetus to finish the transcontinental railroad."
The "ECV" on the top of this compass gives us another clue as to how active the service organization E Clampus Vitus is around these parts. Perhaps I should apply for membership.
 Sadly, our next landmark is yet another "934"--we've seen a lot on this trip. This 934 the Temporary Detention Camps for Japanese-Americans: Sacramento Assembly Center (CHL #934).
This is another example of a temporary detention area used in WWII until more permanent facilities (like Manzanar) could be constructed. Unlike many of the others, this site did not get a state plaque. It only has a couple of small, private plaques.

"It was 4 a.m. in Sacramento when a 100 gun salute shattered the quiet. People not planning on getting up early that morning never forgot it. But it was a memorable day for other reasons, too. It was when electric power arrived in Sacramento over 22 miles of line from the new Folsom Powerhouse." 
- San Francisco Chronicle July 13, 1895

22 miles may not seem like a big deal today, but back in 1895 it was huge. The Folsom Powerhouse (CHL #633) was the first place in the United States to produce long-distance hydroelectric power.
Horatio Gates Livermore traveled west from Maine to purchase land in the area. His original plan was to harvest pine trees and send them down the American River. To harness the logs, he had a plan to build a dam. The water power from the dam could also be used to power mills along the river, just like the ones he saw in New England in places like Lowell, Massachusetts. He convinced the state of California to not only build their new prison in Folsom (San Quentin was getting too crowded, and Rocklin was another candidate), but to also provide prison labor to build both the dam and the powerhouse. The quarry inside FSP provided all the stone for the dam, so those images of inmates pounding rocks were actually quite true in the case of Folsom. Naturally we had the Johnny Cash Pandora station playing on our drive here.
Then a problem arose: Horatio Gates Livermore died . His sons, Horatio P. and Charles E. Livermore took over, but instead of a traditional water mill, they decided to convert the plans into a hydroelectric plant.
We had a delightful older gentleman as our docent to guide us through the history of the powerhouse. Throughout our travels, we have encountered a number of retirees who love sharing the history of their community with tourists and travelers like ourselves. Maybe I'll be doing tours like this when I retire.
The machinery inside the powerhouse was big and, well, powerful. It made for some great photos. All of these were just taken with my iPhone 5.
All the bricks used to build the powerhouse were recycled from a local train station that had been decommissioned.
The Folsom Powerhouse was definitely the highlight of our day, but we still had four more sites to visit as the sun was setting.
Our next two sites took us to quant downtown Folsom. Here is the Terminal of California's First Passenger Railroad (CHL #558). This railroad only ran 22 miles (the distance from Folsom to Sacramento) and was completed in 1856.
Our next site in downtown was the Folsom-Overland Pony Express Route in California (CHL #702).
While there was a railroad connecting Folsom to Sacramento, the railroad was still a couple decades away from connecting to the rest of the United States. That's why the Pony Express was so important during this site's brief tenure as a stop along the network.
One of the original hitching posts still exists on the site, which was only in use from 1860 to 1861.
We loved downtown Folsom, and this is one of those places that we definitely want to return to. Snooks Candies was just one of many things we liked about the town!
Quaint.
Historical!
OK, we're losing daylight, so it's on to our next site: Prairie City (CHL #464).
Prairie City was one of many gold rush boom towns that disappeared when the gold did. The site of Prairie City today has simply been consumed by the suburban sprawl of Folsom.
Here was another disturbing monument to what was once a cemetery, but whose residents were relocated when the land was needed for other purposes.
Our next stop took us to the shores of Lake Natoma and it was another landmark that figured prominently in the Gold Rush history of this region: Coloma Road-Nimbus Dam (CHL #746). From the state: "Alder Springs, south of this point, marks the old Coloma Road, running between Sutter's Fort and Coloma. Established in 1847, this road was used by James W. Marshall in January 1848 to bring the first gold from Sutter's Mill to the fort. Later, traveled by thousands to and from the diggings, it became the route of California's first stageline, established in 1849 by James E. Birch."
We were upset to see that the plaque had been stolen! Notice Libi's sad face in the above photo. Heather had to take a quick restroom break, so she courageously handed off her very nice camera to Libi, who handled it like a pro.
Our last historic site of the day brought us to the Sacramento suburb of Rancho Cordova.
This site brings us full circle for the day. We began the day with the "Five Mile House" Pony Express station and we end our day now with the Fifteen Mile House (CHL #698).
If you have been following our travels for a while now, you know how many sad markers and monuments we have come upon. Here is one that looks like thieves started to pry out of the plinth.
Perhaps the police rolled up to the scene before they could claim their ill-gotten prize. It's so important for us to preserve our state's historic treasures!

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